It's a particularly NYC phenomenon that many well-established restaurants are overlooked, then suddenly, their presence hits you and leaves you wondering, "How come I didn't know about this place before?" That's was the case recently for the West Bank Cafe. It's not only been around since the days of 'Welcome back Kotter' but also has a successful downstairs performance space (for comedy and music) and has featured a well-recieved, innovative 'nouveau cuisine' before the phrase was even coined. The TimesSquare.com crew were indeed among the ignorant who have only heard of West Bank but never set foot inside. Yet, once we did, it earned an immediate high-standing on our list of new favorite places.

Although we're newbies to West Bank, owner Steve Olsen opened it on West 42nd Street and 9th Avenue in 1978. At that time, Hell's Kitchen was effectively living up to its name (those of you who may remember 42nd Street in the '70s and '80s know what we're talking about) and gangs such as the notorious Irish Westies became cafe regulars. Not too long after opening a neighborhood kitchen, Olsen created a theater downstairs and named it the "Laurie Beechman" after the acclaimed cabaret and stage luminary (who died far too young). Soon, the West Bank Cafe became a launching pad as well as a hang-out for playwrights and actors, among them (according to their pr) Tennessee Williams, Arthur Miller, Bruce Willis, and Sean Penn.

In April 2005, the West Bank designated Joe Marcus (formerly of Picholine) as its executive chef. One a visit to observe his cooking creations first-hand, we learned that the easy-going, personable Chef Marcus specializes in American fare that focuses on freshness and flavor, such as his specifically requested palette of legumes from an upstate NY farm. His unearthed veggie collection is an example of what sets the quality of West Bank's menu apart from others.

For appetizers we sampled the distinctly delicate Stuffed Zucchini Flowers in a house-made smoked ricotta and tomato fennel sauce, and the Prosciutto Deviled Eggs sprinkled with prosciutto dust and accompanied by a pickled onion-mushroom salad steeped in an elegant walnut vinaigrette. We also sampled the sumptious Tuna Tartare laced with mint, granny smith apples and pine nuts.

This array of appetite-whetting starters gave us an introduction as to what the mouth-watering main courses would offer us. Luckily, Joe, a Long Island native, specializes in seafood, so we wanted to try the Pan Seared Scallops which were prepared beautifully along with smashed peas, julienne of prosciutto, and preserved lemon emulsion. Next came a table favorite--the Chatham Cod with gnocchi, corn, mixed mushrooms and tomato buerre fondue. This dish truly won us over, and we're already planning our next visit. The cod was cooked to perfection with a crispy skin and succulent flesh, and the gnocchi, often a dish in danger of being too heavy, was the lightest we have ever tasted. Chef Marcus actually shared his gnocchi-making technique with us in a rare video interview.

Although the fish dishes were light and fresh, Marcus did not shy away from hearty meat recipes. The Long Island Duck Breast, with herb polenta, spinach and cherries, was an excellent example of a robust main course that isn't heavy.

The wine list specialized in California varietals and the desserts are exquisitely prepared--we were treated to an airy, creamy Butterscotch pudding.

After the stellar meal, a great night of comedy took place downstairs in the Beechman Theatre. Lewis Black, an in-house West Bank regular who in fact help jump start their comedy scene (and has been a "Daily Show" and "Comedy Central" regular as well) dazzled us with his biting and skillfully presented comedic monologue.

To experience such exceptionally fine dining, as well as great theatre and comedy under one roof, head straight to the West Bank Cafe for a quality taste of old school NYC and new school cuisine that is still on the cutting edge.

West Bank Cafe
407 West 42nd Street, NYC
Phone: 212-695-9161