| A Rosé is Arose! |
| Written by Marianne Camarda |
| Friday, 05 August 2011 06:17 |
 Laurent Perrier Rose Cuvée Brut Jaja Rose Prieure de Montezarques Les Deux Rives Rose Lucien Albrecht Valdo Rose Warm weather makes everything think of outdoor living: fresh flowers, gardens, picnics, barbecues, and why not throw in a little rosé wine? After all, it's time to wake up American palates from their sleepwalk through the red and white wine columns on the menu. Rosé can be crisp, light, incredibly dry, and full of flavor. Last time I was on a date and tried to order rosé, you'd think I asked the guy to wear mascara! Please! Those syrupy concoctions in tacky earthen jars have been long gone from the market. In fact, rosé is a delightful variation on white, but one in which the skins are allowed to undergo maceration with the wine must for enough time to lend it a delicate rosy tint. This process gives these wines just a tinge more body, tannin, and complexity compared to their white cousins. But they are usually dry, refreshing, and frequently bring enough extra zip to the glass to warrant serving with summer's grilled fare. New York has a few restaurants and retailers showcasing some first-rate rosé selections. Several of my favorite sparkling rosés are poured in some of the most elegant bars around. If you feel like splurging, and sampling a terrific selection by the glass, I encourage you to try one of the following. First is La Grenouille, long known as the hothouse beauty of French restaurants, keeps Champagne Laurent Perrier Rose on the wine list. The LP rose is always an elegant choice; it has that velvety touch on the palate that comes from pinot noir. There's a perfect balance of freshness and light notes of strawberry and red currant contrasting just a hint of acidity. Owner Charles Masson keeps the place rolling in flowers and foliage; it's the perfect spot to fall in love—with someone else, and with rose! Second on my list is the stylish Le Caprice, a reincarnation of the popular London Brasserie. It's right in the ground floor of the equally stylish Pierre hotel. On top of a spectacular bar menu by chef Ed Carew, you can find a great selection of delicious, well balanced and focused wines here. But the house champagne, Gaston Chiquet Brut Rose NV, deserves special attention. It's crisp, light, with just a touch of fruit, and a clean finish. At $24 a glass, it's a good value as well.  The list wouldn't be complete without a showing from Italy. While the rosé choices are many, one of my all-time favorites is actually a blend. Valdo from the Valdobbiadene wine region makes a blend of sparkling wine using the Glera grape, which is used to make Prosecco, and a sicilan grape the Nerello Mascalese. The result is a finely bubbling creation that carries the deep fruit notes of the Nerello and the lightness of a Prosecco. It's a refreshing aperitivo that seems to be the most popular one in the house at Mercato Tamburi Trattoria, 352 West 39 St. If you prefer to buy rose at the liquor store, here are a few good bottles to get you on your way. For those who find the price of rosé champagne a bit daunting, there's a lovely sparkling alternative from France. Lucien Albrecht Crémant d'Alsace is light, crisp, finds the perfect balance between fruit and acidity. It's about $18 R JL Wine & Liquor, 212.686.8899. Another great selection in still rosé is Prieuré de Montézargues, a Provencal rosé from Tavel, a town at the heart of the area's rosé-making region. It is fragrant with rich hints of cherry as well as grapefruit, and the full-bodied palate that carries tasty traces of plum, cherry and watermelon. It's a spectacular example of the Provencal style. $25 at Philippe Wines & Liquors. 312 W 23rd St, 212.243.1355. Now, get out there and start tasting. Summer nights are precious few, and the magic of a good rosé makes them even more exciting. For more articles like A Rosé is Arose!, please visit the Gourmet/Wine & Spirits Section of TimesSquare.com |
