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Dining

Mmmomofuko: The Momofuko Empire of David Chang  E-mail
Written by Joey Goodman   
Tuesday, 04 January 2011 03:49

guardian

As executive chef of the Momofuko chain across Manhattan, David Chang has witnessed his brand take off and run far over the last decade. The grandparent of the Momofuko empire, Momofuko Noodle Bar first opened in the East Village in 2003. After the rapid success of Chang’s first culinary venture, Momofuko Ssam Bar, Jo, Milk Bar, and Ma Peche have been dining favorites for New York foodies, critics, authors, and neighborhood clients alike. If the sheer amount of restaurants owned and managed by Chang isn’t impressive enough, consult Time Magazine’s list of the most influential people of 2010, and you’ll find his name comfortably sitting on the list.

With respect to décor, the entrance of the restaurant is clad with tan wooden stools firmly juxtaposed in a comfortable, modern space that foster a sense of community and belonging. For those with a preference for sake over sauvignon blanc or Amstel light, choose from a diverse selection of Japanese styles including the house-brand “spring snow”, and other names including “green ridge”, “first run”, and “summer snow”. For parties of three and more, the “flight of three” is a viable beverage alternative when ordering a four course meal, since it allows you to sample flavors without making a commitment with your palate. It could easily be a compliment to the reasonably priced prix fixe of $40.

My first course at the noodle bar was pickled kimchi soaked in a derivative of arrabiata, a pungent, citrusy take on red cabbage presented in a mini-pickle jar as an appetizer to share. The dish benefited from aesthetics and presentation. Alongside the sweet, beet-red kimchi, our table ordered one of Chang’s most renowned dishes that can be found on the menu at a number of his other restaurants, notably Ssam Bar. Chang is famous for his pork buns, gently sandwiched in a fried miniature bun with accompanying greens. The individual pork buns formed a happy medium of texture and size. The noodle enveloping the meat was not too deconstructed, and functioned as a blanket for the braised pork.

As a main course, I opted for the ginger scallion noodles, composed of pickled shitakes, cucumber, and menma. The ingredients arrived separated in the same bowl, and were divided across the surface, leaving it up to the gourmand to stir. While I didn’t have the opportunity of sampling the Nantucket bay scallops, the almond pear smoked foie, or the beet salad infused with buttermilk, pancetta, and tangerine, my eye was quickly drawn to these dishes as they made their rounds to the tables across the restaurant, and judging from the “mmm”s and “ah”s generally escalating as the clock ticked past nine, clients seemed pleased overall with their choices. For dessert, try the apple pie cake truffles, or the home-made gingerbread ice-cream, both guaranteed melt-in-your-mouth conclusions to a culinary evening. Arrive with a big appetite and an experimental palate, and you assuredly will not be let down. One more thing. When enunciating “Momofuko”, emphasize the Mmm.

Momofuko Noodle Bar is located at 171 1st Ave. For more information, bios, and frequently asked questions, visit their official website at http://www.momofuku.com/noodle-bar/. For more on executive chef David Chang, see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Chang.